Discover the Spiritual Heart of La Rioja
Set in the serene valleys of La Rioja, San Millán de la Cogolla is not just a destination; it’s an experience steeped in history and spirituality. This quaint village, home to the renowned monasteries of Suso and Yuso, is a beacon of religious heritage and linguistic development. San Millán offers a unique blend of tranquillity, culture, and culinary delights that cater to all ages and interests. As you explore this historic locale, you’ll find yourself walking in the footsteps of monks, kings, and scholars. It is thanks to its unique position of historical and cultural interest that these Monasteries have been named a UNESCO Heritage Site.
San Millán de la Cogolla is a village set in fantastic walking country, surrounded by the calmness of nature. It is a lovely place to use as a base to visit the surrounding countryside. However for many people its attraction is the monasteries and the historical interest that they bring. There are two separate monasteries, each with their own visiting arrangements. The higher of the two is the Monastery of Suso. Dating back to the early 6th century, Suso originates from cave monasateries in which a hermit named San Millan, after whom the town is named, lived. Suso is where the first words of Spanish and Basque were penned, making it a cornerstone of Iberian linguistic history. Its architecture is a tapestry of Visigothic, Mozarabic, and Romanesque styles. The guided tours, often the only way to visit, offer insightful narratives about the monastery’s role in the intellectual and spiritual life of Spain. It is possible to visit the austere cave hermitages, Visigoth arches and pre-Romanesque extensions with Arab renovations.
Located below Suso, the Monastery of Yuso was built in the 11th century and expanded in the 16th and 17th centuries. It stands as a magnificent example of Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Yuso houses a valuable library with over 10,000 volumes, including the famous Codex Emilianensis. The first time words in Castilian Spanish and Basque language are believed to have been written down is at these monasteries. A Gloss is a note or a translation which is written down between the lines or in the margins of a Latin text. These Glosses appeared in a book called CODEX 60, a religious book written in the 10th century by an anonymous monk who lived in Suso. The original book is in the Royal Academy of History in Madrid, but an identical copy is on display in the Monastery of Yuso.
Both monasteries are still active religious sites with a small monastic community in Yuso, which adds to the authentic atmosphere. Visitors can sometimes participate in the prayer services, offering a truly immersive experience.
The town itself, small though it is, offers some lovely options for dining and accommodation. It’s a great alternative to the pilgrim towns if you want to stay somewhere where you can wake up and find yourself truly surrounded by nature.
Where To Stay in San Millan de la Cogolla
San Millán de la Cogolla caters to a range of accommodation preferences:
Hostería del Monasterio de San Millán
Positioned inside the Yuso monastery, this hostería offers charming rooms with views of the surrounding mountains and the monastic buildings. This establishment is highly popular so you are recommended to book early to secure your place.
Morada de San Millán
If you’d rather have the freedom of a self-catering option, the highly rated, 4 bedroomed La Morada de San Millán might be perfect for you.
Casa Rural la Calera
And for a touch of luxury you could try the Casa Rural la Calera, which is located a couple of kilometres outside the town of San Millán de la Cogolla. It is a traditional country house with beautiful furnishings, but with some more modern conveniences, such as the corner spa baths in many of the en-suite bathrooms.