Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Santo Domingo de la Calzada, nestled in the verdant landscapes of La Rioja, Spain, presents itself not just as a city but as a journey back through the corridors of time. Strictly speaking, Santo Domingo de la Calzada isn’t within the Rioja wine region, it falls just outside. But the allure of this small city is such that we couldn’t stop ourselves from including it on the site. It makes a lovely day out for anyone visiting the Rioja region.
This charming city, with its rich tapestry of history and cultural heritage, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of Spain’s past. From the cobblestone streets that whisper tales of medieval pilgrims to the architectural marvels that have stood the test of time, Santo Domingo de la Calzada offers an immersive experience into the heart of Spanish tradition and history.
The origins of Santo Domingo de la Calzada trace back to the 11th century, with the city’s foundation deeply intertwined with the Camino de Santiago, one of the most significant medieval pilgrimage routes. The city owes its name and existence to a humble hermit, Domingo García, who devoted his life to improving the journey for pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela. His miracles, including the legendary tale of reviving a roasted chicken to prove a pilgrim’s innocence, are woven into the fabric of the city, illustrating the deep roots of faith and miracle that characterize its history.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada’s significance on the Camino de Santiago cannot be overstated. It served as a beacon of hope and respite for countless pilgrims over the centuries, with its infrastructure and institutions developed to cater to their spiritual and physical needs. Today, it remains a pivotal stop on the pilgrimage, inviting modern-day pilgrims and tourists alike to step back in time and walk the path of history. When you first step into the town the sense of arrival is palpable – its as if the sighs of joy from so many weary pilgrims over the ages, with their aching feet and empty bellies, has left its impression on the very buildings themselves.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is easily accessible by road, and it takes just 1 hour 20 minutes hours to drive from Bilbao airport, or just over 2 hours from Santander or Zaragoza airports, all of which host the usual array of car hire companies.
The Town
At the heart of Santo Domingo de la Calzada lies its magnificent Cathedral, an amalgamation of Gothic and Baroque elements, which houses not only religious artifacts but also the remnants of the city’s patron saint. The Cathedral’s unique feature, a chicken coop containing live chickens, commemorates the city’s legendary miracle and adds a layer of living history to its hallowed halls.
And yes, you did just read that right. The Cathedral houses a chicken coop containing live hens. This is quite unusual, even by Spanish standards. Why, I hear you ask, would a cathedral contain a chicken coop? Well, its all down to a 14th century miracle which occurred following the incorrect accusation that a young pilgrim was a thief, and sentenced to being hanged for the crime. When the boy’s parents protested his innocence before the local mayor, who was eating his dinner – which apparently included 2 beheaded and cooked fowl – the hen and the rooster jumped alive off his plate and began to dance. Allegedly the birds which are kept in the coop in the Cathedral are descendants of these two miraculous birds, and pilgrims often collect their dropped feathers as tokens of good luck.
Inside the cathedral can be seen a mosaic depicting the pilgrim boy rescued from the gallows (wearing the shell on his jacket as a sign of the pilgrimage), and the two delighted hens.
The town contains many pilgrim’s inns, or Albergue de Peregrinos, dotted through its cobbled streets. One notable inn, the Casa de la Cofradia de Santo Domingo dates back to the 16th century and currently houses the headquarters of the brotherhood established by Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the 11th century to assist pilgrims on their route to Santiago. The brotherhood still organises the traditional fiestas which take place to celebrate their patron saint on 25th April, and on the 1st, 10th, 11th, 12th and 13th of May.
The Santo Domingo Bridge, with its 26 arches stretching over the Oja River, serves as a testament to medieval engineering and the city’s strategic importance in connecting pilgrims with their spiritual journey. Meanwhile, the 15th-century Tower of San Juan offers more than just panoramic views of the city; it’s a vantage point to appreciate the city’s historical evolution and architectural diversity.
Where To Stay in Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Accommodation in Santo Domingo de la Calzada ranges from charming hotels nestled within historic buildings to cozy guesthouses that offer a warm welcome. Each provides a comfortable base from which to explore the city’s attractions, ensuring a memorable stay for every traveller.
There are some wonderful apartments available to rent right in the heart of the old town, from the 4 bedroomed Apartamento la Cathedral in Calle Mayor, to the characterful 3 bedroomed Apartamento Santo Domingo de la Calzada La Rioja.
For something cosier you could try the two bedroomed Apartamento Paseo Espolon (sleeps up to 6) on Avenida Juan Carlos I. Or you might try the recently renovated Apartamentos La Muralla on Avenida Juan Carlos I.
Hotels in Santo Domingo de la Calzada
If hotels and hostels are more your thing, there are no shortage of these in this pilgrim town. As well as an array of pilgrim hostels, you can find hotels offering a little more luxury. If you are after somewhere unusual you could try staying at the Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a former 12th century hospital now converted into a modern hotel with all the necessary amenities for a relaxing stay.
And if you are hiring a car and don’t mind staying outside the town centre, you could treat yourself to a stay at the 4-star Casa Grande Hotel, located in nearby Grañó
Food and Drink
The culinary scene in Santo Domingo de la Calzada offers a taste of La Rioja’s rich gastronomy, with traditional dishes like “La Caparrona” stew embodying the flavours and agricultural bounty of the region. Moreover, the city’s location in one of Spain’s most prestigious wine regions offers an oenophilic journey through vineyards and wineries, where the art of wine-making is celebrated and savoured.
A favourite Santo Domingo speciality is the milagros del santo (saint’s miracles), a small pastry in the shape of a hen, to commemorate the town’s illustrious miracle.
Activities in and around Santo Domingo de la Calzada
The countryside surrounding Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a playground for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Hiking, cycling, and nature walks invite visitors to explore the beauty of La Rioja’s natural landscapes. The Sierra de la Demanda Natural Park, with its opportunities for rock climbing and bird watching, offers an adventure into the wild, contrasting the historical and cultural richness of the city.
The Oja River, with its serene flow and lush banks, provides a perfect setting for fishing, kayaking, and peaceful contemplation, further enriching the outdoor experience for visitors seeking tranquillity or adventure in nature’s embrace.
Events and Festivals
Santo Domingo de la Calzada’s cultural vibrancy is on full display during the Fiestas de Santo Domingo, a festival that fills the streets with colour, music, and devotion in honour of the city’s patron saint. This event, among others, showcases the local traditions that are an integral part of the city’s identity.
Throughout the year, you can expect a variety of cultural, religious, and traditional events that highlight the rich heritage of this historic town. While the detailed list of events for the entire year isn’t fully available, some key events and activities are notable:
- Fêtes Patronales de Santo Domingo: Celebrated from May 10 to May 15, 2024, these patron saint festivities are a vibrant showcase of local culture, including processions, traditional rituals, and community gatherings.
- Medieval Market: Coinciding with the December bank holiday for the constitution, this market is a lively re-enactment of medieval times, featuring stalls, crafts, and traditional entertainment.
- Miracles of the Saint Play: In August, a play that depicts the miracles of Santo Domingo, the town’s patron saint, takes place, offering insight into the town’s religious and historical significance.
- Procession of Sheep: On May 10, this unique procession commemorates Alfonso I of Aragón’s 1112 decree, allowing the town’s livestock to graze freely on the kingdom’s mountains. It’s a nod to the town’s pastoral traditions and the significance of agriculture.
- Pan del Santo Procession: Following the sheep procession, this event involves a child leading a procession with a bread figure of the hanged pilgrim, brought back to life just as the two cooked hens were, according to local legend. This bread figure thus symbolises the town’s legends and the miracles attributed to Santo Domingo.
- Wheel Procession: Also part of the May festivities, this procession commemorates another one of the miracles of Santo Domingo, adding a spiritual dimension to the celebrations.
- Various cultural and religious events: Throughout the year, Santo Domingo de la Calzada hosts numerous other events that reflect its rich history, cultural diversity, and religious devotion. These include open-air dances, bullfights, and religious ceremonies.